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A cozy weekend away in historic Haapsalu

Haapsalu is a quietly enchanting seaside town about 100 kilometers southwest of Tallinn. In the off-season, the air is brisk and you’ll have the sidewalks to yourself. Even if the weather isn’t very cooperative, you can warm up with coffee and cake or a leisurely meal at plenty of inviting cafés. 

Medieval beginnings

The town, founded in 1279 and centered around Haapsalu Castle, now houses a museum dedicated to the castle’s history and the rulers of the region. Supposedly, it is also the home to Estonia’s most famous ghost, the White Lady, making the imposing stone walls feel even spookier on dark autumn nights. 

Medicinal mud and seaside retreats

Haapsalu became Estonia’s first mud spa resort in 1825, when physician Carl Abraham Hunnius began promoting the healing powers of the mud found in the bay. Holidaymakers from St. Petersburg soon followed, transforming the town into a fashionable getaway for the well-heeled. 

Regardless of the weather, go for a walk from the historic city center to the seaside promenade, and look for the Kuursaal, which was a concert hall when it was built in 1898. In summer, it’s a restaurant, but in the off-season you can still admire the wooden lace adorning the outside and imagine what it would have looked like filled with women in elegant ball gowns. 

Get the full Haapsalu spa experience at Hestia Haapsalu Spa Hotel or Fra Mare Thassalo Spa Hotel. Both offer natural spa treatments using the region’s famous medicinal mud. The highlight at Hestia is a spacious juniper sauna with a view of the water, while Fra Mare has a year-round outdoor pool so you can enjoy the benefits of the crisp autumn air after a steam in the sauna. 

The center of Estonia’s Coastal Swedish culture

Swedish farmers settled in this area of Estonia over 700 years ago and developed their own unique culture. Though most left the country by the end of World War II, you can still observe the ways Coastal Swedes influenced Estonian culture in this area of Western Estonia. The best place to learn about their history is at the Museum of Coastal Swedes in Haapsalu. 

Interested in learning more? Visit Vormsi Island, which is accessible by car ferry from Rohuküla, less than 10 kilometers from Haapsalu. Once you arrive on the island, head to Vormsi Farm Museum. The museum is open all year round, though visitors can only climb Saxby Lighthouse during the summer. Even so, it still looks stunning in the off-season! 

Where to eat in Haapsalu

Most of Haapsalu’s cafés remain warm and welcoming all year round. 

Here are a few local favorites: 

  • Muuriaare Café is known for mouthwatering cakes and cozy couches. 
  • Wiigi Café has a good view of the bay; the beautifully presented plates will brighten any autumn day. 
  • Restaurant Rado has a sister location in Tallinn, and both have been recognized by the MICHELIN Guide for their seasonal menus and excellent service. 
  • Hapsal Dietrich has a long history, with much of its decor and architecture dating back to the first Estonian Republic.

Things to consider before traveling

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Some tips to consider while traveling

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