As Europe's vineyards enter harvest season, Cyprus offers a grape story that stretches back thousands of years. On the sun-drenched southern slopes of the Troodos Mountains, the annual harvest is inseparable from the story of Commandaria, Cyprus' legendary sweet wine and the world's oldest named wine still in production.
Every glass is a journey through time. The origins of Commandaria can be traced back to an ancient Cypriot wine known as Nama, while the name we know today emerged during the Middle Ages. In 1192, the Knights established La Grande Commanderie at Kolossi, near Limassol, and the wine produced in the surrounding region gradually became known as Commandaria.
Its reputation traveled far beyond Cyprus. Medieval accounts link the wine with royalty and the celebrated Bataille des Vins of 1224, one of the earliest recorded wine competitions in Europe.
Today, authentic Commandaria is produced within a designated region of fourteen villages on the southern slopes of Troodos, using two indigenous grape varieties: red Mavro and white Xynisteri. In 2025, the tradition and knowledge surrounding Commandaria wine were inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
Visitors can best appreciate what makes this wine so distinctive during harvest season. The grapes remain on the vines until they are fully ripe and naturally rich in sugar. Once picked, they are laid under the Mediterranean sun to dry, to concentrate their sugars, aromas, and flavors before being pressed.
This age-old process connects today's growers with generations of winemakers before them. After sun-drying, the grapes are pressed and the concentrated juice is fermented. The wine is then matured, traditionally developing the deep amber color, rich aromas, and velvety sweetness for which Commandaria is known.
Exploring the Commandaria Wine Route brings travelers closer to this living tradition. The route passes through mountain villages where vineyards share the landscape with stone-built houses, old wine presses and family traditions. Visitors can discover wineries, museums and workshops, meet local producers and, of course, taste the wine in the place where its story continues to unfold.
Commandaria can be enjoyed on its own or paired with local dishes. Try it with halloumi, hiromeri (a type of smoked ham) and dried figs before a meal, or savor it afterward with fruit cake or a rich dessert.
The grape harvest is more than the beginning of a new vintage. In the Commandaria villages, it is part of a tradition passed from one generation to the next, a celebration of the land, of the local varieties, and centuries of winemaking knowledge.
So, when harvest season arrives in Cyprus, follow the vineyards into the Troodos foothills. Taste the grapes, meet the people behind the wine, and raise a glass to a tradition that has survived for centuries.
