When it came to his choice of meals, Emperor Franz Joseph proved very loyal to his native country and region. Alongside cooked beef, he loved simple pastry dishes made from eggs, flour, milk and a little sugar, such as the light and creamy Kaiserschmarren. Also known as ‘Emporer’s Trifle’, this dish is a true staple in Viennese cuisine and can not only be served as dessert but also as a main course. And: It is really easy to make.
The Viennese certainly did not invent the chocolate cake. The reputation of the Sachertorte outdoing any chocolate cake is owed to Eduard Sacher. The cook at the House of Metternich managed to make it famous as one of the best dishes of the Austrian cuisine.
Strudel, štrudl, štrudla and štrukli – these are the names given by our neighbors in Italy, Slovenia, Slovakia and the Czech Republic to this sweet dream of light pastry and its juicy filling. But in English, the only word which has made it into common use is the German “Strudel”. That is a powerful signal of just how famous the Viennese Apfelstrudel has now become internationally. But it’s all too easily forgotten that this fine pastry once traveled an extensive route from Arabia via the Ottoman Empire and Turkey, before becoming resident in Vienna. However, the long journey was worth it!
This goulash owes its name to the ever-hungry coachmen who drive the famous carriages (or ‘fiacres’) around Vienna. The beef ragout is topped with a garnish of sausage and fried egg – while its rich juice is permeated with sweet paprika powder. For this latter ingredient, as well as the numerous other variations of goulash, the Austrian cuisine owes a debt of gratitude to its neighbours in Hungary.
There is practically no more delicious proof of how firmly the Austrian cuisine is rooted in the heart of Europe than one of the most typical of Viennese dishes: boiled veal, or Tafelspitz. Good-quality beef, a few vegetables, aromatic spices and plenty of water to cook in – these are the vital ingredients. The same ingredients, though, also come together when the French are creating their “pot-au-feu”, or the Italians their “bollito misto”. In the case of the latter, veal and chicken meat or tongue might be added, but then some small differences should remain despite us all being good Europeans together.
Something which is not yet entirely proven for serious students of linguistics, but is readily apparent to Italophile Austrian gastronomes: the similarity, which is not just a linguistic one, between Austrian dumplings (“Nockerln”) and Italian gnocchi (pronounced: gnoki). In both countries, these small doughy treats are readily given a spicy twist. You would look for these semolina dumplings, the “Grieß-Gnocchi”, in the soup-bowls on the far side of the Brenner Pass, whereas in the world of Austrian soups you will come across them fairly frequently.
The true origin of the Wiener Schnitzel has again become a matter of vigorous debate between culinary historians in recent times. One thing, however, is absolutely certain: the Wiener Schnitzel is truly cosmopolitan. The earliest trails lead to Spain, where the Moors were coating meat with breadcrumbs during the Middle Ages. The Jewish community in Constantinople is similarly reported to have known a dish similar to the Wiener Schnitzel in the 12th century. So whether the legend surrounding the import of the “Costoletta Milanese” from Italy to Austria by Field Marshal Radetzky is true or not, a nice story makes very little difference. The main thing is that the schnitzel is tender and crispy!
Culinary history has always been notable for successfully overcoming political boundaries. For instance, the history of the origins of the Tirol dumpling is in no way restricted to today’s Tirol. Although first recorded in a Tirol cookery book in the 16th century, spicy dumplings had been known fully 400 years earlier in areas of what is now Italy. This is demonstrated by a “fresco with dumplings” in the castle chapel in Hocheppan (Castel d’Appiano). What else but a delicious Tirol dumpling could have inspired the artist in question?
The reason why Styrian fried chicken in particular is so famous has a lot to do with the “Sulmtal Geflügel” (“Sulmtal poultry”), which is now undergoing something of a revival. Since the 17th century, this name has been given to the particularly fleshy capons and poulards which proved highly popular amongst the nobility of Europe. During the Habsburg Monarchy, this delicious poultry was even supplied to markets on the far side of the Alps, as far away as Trieste and Marburg.
The clear waters of the Salzburg Lake District are of a quality which is good enough to drink and they offer the best living conditions for the local fish population. Foremost, amongst these are the charr and trout, but pike, tench, carp, eels and perch can also be found in large numbers in the Fuschlsee and the other lakes in the area.
Anyone engaging in a serious search for the true origin of the Linzer Torte soon finds him or herself travelling between Egypt, Verona and Milwaukee in the American state of Wisconsin. The oldest recorded tart recipe in the world which was written down by a countess in Verona is to be found today in the monastery library in Admont and even became popular in America during the mid-19th century. A cake-maker who moved to Linz in 1822 used the recipe to create the “Linzer Masse”, which was the basis for the grandiose Linz tart. Today it is the culinary emblem of the capital city of Upper Austria.
The borders between today’s Austria and its southern neighbours are particularly dissipating in Carinthia. Instead of drizzling with melted butter, here the famous ‘Kasnudel’ are topped with melted Sasaka: the word comes from the Slovenian language and simply means finely-diced bacon or a type of lardons. Besides being a wonderfully spicy spread for bread, it also figures prominently in Styrian cuisine, proving that the colorful culinary merry-go-round in the former territories of the Habsburg Monarchy is still vibrant today.
