Article Portugal’s largest Alentejo fortress

Elvas, located in the Alentejo region in southern Portugal, is home to the largest bulwarked fortification in the world. It has played a vital role in defending the Portuguese border throughout history, a legacy that earned it recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The city’s walls, built across several centuries, and its impressive star-shaped fortifications form a unique military complex that also includes the remarkable Aqueduto da Amoreira, constructed at the end of the 15th century. 

As you arrive in Elvas, especially from the Estremoz road, you’re greeted by the sight of this aqueduct, stretching seven kilometers and made up of 843 arches. Designed by Francisco de Arruda, the architect of Lisbon’s Belém Tower, it sets the tone for what lies ahead: a city shaped by centuries of strategic defense. Elvas’ military structures, with a perimeter of nearly 10 kilometers, reflect the evolution of military architecture up to the 19th century. 

These fortifications were crucial during the 17th-century Restoration War with Spain and later served as a key base for General Wellington during the Napoleonic Wars. Today, they remain remarkably preserved and include Islamic and medieval walls; a 17th-century ring of defenses influenced by the Dutch engineer Cosmander; the Forte de Santa Luzia; Forte da Graça; and the smaller 19th-century forts São Mamede, São Pedro, and São Domingos. 

From above, the geometric layout of these defenses forms a striking star shape, a design best appreciated in aerial views or by exploring the monuments and surrounding landscape. 

In the city’s historic core, the Castle of Elvas marks the oldest part of town. A walk toward Praça da República, home to the former cathedral (now the Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção), takes you past the Church of the Dominicans, known for its octagonal floor plan, the Manueline pillory, and the Fernandina Tower. Along these streets, you’ll notice old arches that once served as gates through the defensive walls. 

Other important sites include the São Domingos Church, the Military Museum, and the Igreja da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco. Don’t miss the Museum of Contemporary Art and the João Carpinteiro Photography Museum, where visitors can view rare historical pieces, including a camera from 1898 and photographs dating back to 1860. 

Despite its past of battles and fortifications, Elvas today is a peaceful and welcoming city, proud of Alentejo’s rich culinary tradition. Local dishes include migas com entrecosto (sautéed breadcrumbs with garlic and spareribs), ensopado de borrego (lamb stew), and carne de porco à alentejana (pork with clams). For dessert, it’s hard to resist the famous Elvas plums, especially served with sericaia, a baked egg custard with cinnamon. Other traditional sweets include azevias, nogados, enxovalhadas, and filhós, each offering a taste of the region’s heritage. 

Step into Elvas and discover a hidden gem of Portugal’s rich history.