A getaway on the EU’s eastern border
Lake Peipsi is the largest lake in Estonia. The European Union’s boundary with Russia runs right through its waters, yet the lake remains a popular and destination for lakeside holidays, fishing, and boating.
The lake’s coastline runs for over 350 kilometers from north to south, but one of the most fascinating sections is known as the Onion Route, particularly the seven kilometers between Kolkja and Varnja.
Why is it called the Onion Route?
The Lake Peipsi area is home to one of Estonia’s regional cultures, the Old Believers, who came to Estonia in the 17th century. At the time, they refused to accept certain reforms in the Russian Orthodox Church. As a result, they faced brutal persecution, and many Old Believers fled Russia to escape torture and death. Some of them settled in Estonia in the poor farmlands on the coast of Lake Peipsi, where they lived as fishermen and onion farmers.
What to see and do along Lake Peipsi
One of the best ways to explore the Onion Route is by renting a bike to ride from Kolkja to Varnja. In Kolkja, you can start your adventure with a visit to the recently renovated Old Believers Museum. In addition to seeing objects donated by local residents, you can use a VR headset to attend a service at an Old Believer prayer house.
At the Peipsimaa County Heritage Center, you can learn more about the crafts of the region, such as dyeing textiles with indigo and traditional lubok printing. Their little shop is a charming place to buy local handicrafts to take home.
When you go on a lakeside holiday in Estonia, you can’t just sit on the shore; you have to go out on the water!
Here are a few ideas:
- Try stand-up paddle boarding. Kauksi Beach, on the northern tip of the lake, is the most popular beach on Lake Peipsi. The water is shallow and calm, ideal for an SUP trip.
- Go fishing. Lake Peipsi is famous for its whitefish and perch. If it goes well, you can enjoy a meal you caught yourself at the end of the day.
- Take a day trip to Piirissaar, a small island in the lake, home to an Old Believer community. There are three small villages you can walk through with a guide, and a museum.
One of the best things about Lake Peipsi is that even when it’s frozen, it’s still an attractive holiday destination. Ice formations along the shore make for an interesting winter walk. Usually, the ice is thick enough to go out on the lake, too. Locals use a special truck called a karakat, with extra big wheels, for ice fishing trips or to go for a winter drive on the lake.
What to eat in the area
Don’t forget to try the onions! Your best bet is to order an onion pie and tea at the Samovar House, where you can also learn about brewing tea in a traditional samovar. For a heartier meal featuring local fish from the lake, pay a visit to Kolkja Fish and Onion Restaurant.
1/
Lake Peipsi
This hidden corner of Estonia, along Lake Peipsi, is an idyllic, lakeside holiday destination for culture scouts.
2/
Lake Peipsi
The main section of the Onion Route is only seven kilometers long, perfect for a leisurely cycling trip.
3/
Lake Peipsi
A cup of tea from a samovar is a must when you visit the Onion Route.
4/
Lake Peipsi
Once you try a slice of traditional onion pie, you’ll understand why onions grown by Old Believers are so highly valued.
Things to consider before traveling
How to choose your accommodation in Europe: a guide
In Europe, there is accommodation for every wish, price range, and desired experience. Whether it’s a tent suspended between two trees, a five-star hotel with a view of a turquoise sea, or a wallet-friendly hostel, it’s all here. The question is, what specific options do you have and how do you go about choosing? That’s […]
The ultimate guide to European currencies
How to convert cash, use cards, and reduce fees One of the great benefits of traveling around Europe is the ease of use when it comes to currencies. On much of the continent, you don’t need to worry about keeping different bills and coins or making mental-math conversations between one currency to another to […]
How to stay safe while traveling in Europe
No matter what, safety while traveling is most important. Luckily, Europe has a stellar safety record, and more than a dozen of its countries regularly appear at the top end of safest places to live and travel lists. To make your adventure safe and secure, consider these tips and best practices! Travel insurance […]
What you need to enter Europe
Visas, documents, and passports So, you are planning to visit Europe. Great! We will be happy to welcome you and share what makes this continent so unique. Here are answers to the most common questions about preparing for your trip. Addressing them now will make your travels smooth, easy, and convenient! Who needs a […]
Your complete guide to planning your daily life in Europe
Tips on local languages, mobile tech, and time zones We all know the feeling: your phone battery is dying or you’re passing through an area of weak signal. At home, it’s usually a simple annoyance, but when you’re traveling, not having access to a communications device is something you’ll want to avoid. So, how […]
Some tips to consider while traveling
Traveling around Europe
Your guide to trains, trams, busses and bikes Europe has one of the most advanced transportation systems in the world. From massive metropolises to small towns, you can easily link up from place to place by public transport. Riding the rails across this marvelous continent might be the best way to explore: it’s highly efficient, […]
Tips to communicate in Europe
Why speaking a few words of the local tongue will make your travel experience even better As you may have guessed, English is widely spoken in Europe, especially in northern countries. In many other countries, people have a good, if not fluent, grasp of the language. But that doesn’t mean that learning—and indeed using! […]
Your guide to passenger rights while traveling in Europe
If you’re a traveler, you’ve probably experienced a delay, cancellation, or other unforeseen issue. Of course, no one wants this, but it’s important to be prepared and perhaps most of all, to know your rights and privileges if a problem arises. So, what are your rights in Europe? Keep reading! Air Passenger Rights So, […]
Read more
The Way of Saint James
One Camino, thousands of experiences!
Poland’s nature reserves
Natural places for extraordinary ecotourism.
A charming journey through Slovenia
December delights in historic towns and cities.
Must-Try Mediterranean Entrees
One of the best parts of international travel is getting to try the local cuisine, and some of the best dishes in Europe come from the countries on the Mediterranean Sea. Starting in Spain, we’ll highlight some great entrees from all around the coast and on into Turkey.